Ripper Street or "How the Daily Mail Fails at Feminism"

 

 

There seems to be a historical drama face-off going on between ITV and BBC.

I know everyone flails about Downton Abbey, and I do admit when I tried to watch it I did have 4 large dogs trying to jump on me at the same time (don't ask), but it didn't entice me to watch more than one episode. To me it has that certain.... nicely nicely British historical drama, can't offend the censors, fun for all the family.... feel to it. I'm probably wrong, and I am most definitely not one of those people that watches one episode and gives up (god forbid the kind of twat that watches an episode IN THE MIDDLE OF A SEASON, then moans about how they don't understand what's going on), so I'll give it the benefit of the doubt and try to watch it again soon.

But unfortunately, I do find it difficult to believe that ITV can produce anything of worth. Chalk that down to the X Factor/Britain's No Talent generation.

So when I see that ITV is filling it's Sunday slot (previously belonging to Downton) with a new show, Mr Selfridge, I am hardly scrambling for the remote. In fact, I had little knowledge (due to never watching ITV) of it, and turned to BBC One instead, where I happened upon Ripper Street in all it's gory glory.


 

Oh, and the "bad guy" in the 2nd episode is Joe Gilgun, who I first saw in This Is England. To say he plays an immensely brilliant villain is an understatement.



After gulping down Boardwalk Empire, Game of Thrones and Breaking Bad in 2012, it's fairly safe to say that British TV is just nowhere near the level of it's American counterparts. Mainly due to budget. However, I'd say that Ripper Street is pretty damn close in terms of writing and attention to detail (although there are rarely any GRAND sets, the detail put into the small snippets you see is brilliant). This is possibly because it was created as a collaboration between BBC and BBC America.

Unfortunately, the theme of the show isn't anything new, and is very similar stylistically to Guy Ritchie's Sherlock Holmes films. Very gritty, a specific colour palette in terms of costumes, and a very similar soundtrack (that AMAZING broken Romanian-esque sound created by Hans Zimmer, who apparently "did hideous things to a piano" alongside banjos, violins and other unconventional instruments). It's the very tried and tested Victorian-era gritty-bits-of-East-London style, but if you like that kind of thing, it ticks all the boxes, and it does do it well.


 



However, what Ripper Street DOES do is deal with the time period shortly after Jack the Ripper went about his business, and the paranoia left behind, causing conflict with the police force. I won't go into the details of the characters (if you care enough to read this far, just watch it), but will say it's a "monster of the week" show, with some loose relationship plot development moving throughout. We actually accidentally watched half of the second episode without seeing the first, and while we didn't know the detail of each character, you can get the gist, which goes to show the storytelling is well-written.

What I do want to discuss is the role of women in Ripper Street. The Daily Mail, that seems to consistently objectify and degrade women on a regular fucking basis, claim that Ripper Street is an "Anti-Women Orgy of Gore"

 



The Daily Fail article complains about the "souring atmosphere and the way that violence is rather too lasciviously portrayed against a backdrop of fetishised period-perfect sets" and the "torture and murder of women, enthusiastically depicted... nothing to do with the Ripper, mind you." She goes on to complain that the first episode featured a "convoluted plotline about the first snuff movies ever made", and that "we see a great deal more of this act than is strictly necessary".

Mustn't it be lovely, to live in a world of puppy dogs and kittens, where the idea of sitting down on a Sunday night to watch a little bit of gory drama is viewed in the same titillating light as 50 Shits of Grey. Such a terrible shame when your little drool-fest is interrupted by the TYPE OF SHOCKING VIOLENCE THAT ACTUALLY HAPPENS TO REAL WOMEN EVERY DAY. "It would be laughable if it wasn’t quite so nasty", apart from it's not, is it, because it has actually struck a nerve, that you aren't capable of dealing with in an intelligent manner.

She even goes on to complain about how the men are kitted out in exquisite tweed and plaid suits while the "women are generally naked - or just shuffle about in rags".

 

Nice rags.....?

The Daily Fail article may have had a point, if the series continued with female murders (it started out with one to highlight how all female murders were linked to Jack the Ripper shortly after his time), however the article fails to highlight that point. The second episode features a male victim and the introduction of a strong, mothering character (albeit just for one episode) - and the only "tart" actually ends up almost (well she beats the crap out of a few extras) kicking some arse in a full gown, corset and tiny wobbly hat.

Fuck your false feminism, Jan Moir. Calling out misogyny just because something is depicted in a violent way does not mean that Ripper Street's creators are anti-women.

Have you seen Ripper Street - if so, how did it make you feel? Also, would you suggest I give Mr Selfridge a go?

 

Playful Promises SS13: Paradise

2 more sets of images have been released from Playful Promises, which I shot back in the Summer!

 

Better yet, all of these items are available now (just click through to go to the PP website).

 

Model: Miss Miranda

MUA: Cheyenne Raymond

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also shot the swimwear in our studio.

Model: Hayley @ IMM

MUA: Cheyenne Raymond

Hair stylist: Ceri Cushen

 

 

 

 

 

Opulent Latex from Eustratia

 
Eustratia's Opulence collection, shot by Katelizabeth Photography

When most people think of latex they think of full catsuits, gimp masks, the full whack. And for some time that's the style that prevailed (and of course, there's nothing wrong with that, if it floats your boat :P). However, as latex became easier and cheaper to buy, designers began to have the freedom to experiment. 

With the recent boom of celebrities donning rubber, it has become seen as more of a creative fashion choice rather than only seen in sweaty fetish clubs. Many designers have started to experiment with the material like they would fabric, making use of the applique details and translucent or opaque rubber of all different colours.

One designer that I've worked with various times is Eustratia. Each collection she creates is better and better, as she experiments more with the rubber. I'm particularly in love with her recent collection, Opulence, as it features baroque applique and black and gold colourways.

A few months ago I took part in the Eustratia catwalk show at London Fetish Weekend.

The full line up at London Fetish Weekend 2012 - Image by Dafydd Owen

 

Image by Tigz Rice

 I thought I'd also feature some of my favourite pieces from the Opulence collection. These were shot by Katelizabeth Photography and feature the designer herself, under her modelling name Biomechanina and Sevensin.

 

 

 

 

Playful Promises Design Competition Results

One of the things I love about my job is being able to watch lingerie being created.... from initial sketchy design through to CAD, to first sample through to final piece! Then I get the joy of photographing them!

In December last year, Playful Promises had run a design competition which would allow one budding lingerie designer the chance to see their design created (a pretty awesome thing to put on their CV!). After a facebook vote, Emma, the brand director still had a tough choice narrowing down to just one design. So she thought, fuck it, let's do three of them. 

You can take a look at the final CADs here, and how they work so well as a mini-collection!

Last week, when shooting the PP AW13 collection we took an hour out to quickly shoot these with Miss Miranda. 

I'm pretty chuffed with these photos too! What do you think?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fabulously Fetish : NSFW

I've had to keep these photos under wraps for a while, so I just can't wait to share them!

A few months ago I shot the new lookbook for awesome shoe brand, Fabulously Fetish! It was the most epic shoot I've done so far, in terms of props, preparation and time it took shooting (9 HOURS). It would have been a difficult task but luckily I had an amazing model, who I just love working with again and again. Bet you can't guess who :P Yep, Miss Miranda.

Fabulously Fetish recreate the classic fetish arched shoe, so we wanted to bring a bit of this into the shoot without becoming cliche. Inspired by Bizarre (no, not the current Bizarre, the original 50's version) created by illustrator John Willie, we used rope-bondage and particular poses to evoke the feeling of two different characters. One is a more submissive woman, echoing Sweet Gwendoline, while the other is a stronger, dominant type. The characters also invade each other's space (the two different sets, one faded grandeur, and one stark and distressing). 

I'm so pleased with these images, hopefully you will like them too!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lace and Fur

I keep meaning to take more shots of my daily outfits, but rarely get around to doing so! 

Yesterday I had the pleasure of meeting and taking a few portraits of Lawrence Gullo, an amazing artist from New York. Later, in the evening, he came with his husband, Fyodor Pavlov (another brilliant artist, who we have commissioned art from before), to our club, The Burning Beat. It was so lovely meeting them!

This is what I wore during the day!
 

 

VINTAGE DRESS - Bought from Yume! 

FAUX FUR TRIMMED JACKET - Rare London

VINTAGE FUR - My lovely friend Sam was sent a huge box of vintage furs, as well as lots of hats, which she gave to me <3

 

This Month in Pictures

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 Top Left - New goodies... a girdle by What Katie Did and a fringed red collar from Rokit, which I'm going to customise further!

Top Right - A behind-the-scenes shot of my Halloween costume! I'm really pleased with how the makeup came out.

Bottom Left & Right - I shot the next lookbook for Playful Promises Clothing in a cute little location! All those books were real - gorgeous.


 

Top Left - I had the absolute pleasure of shooting Italian burlesque artist Janet Fischietto. Beautiful and sweet is an understatement! Can't wait to show these photos

Top Right - Janet also performed for us at our cabaret, The Burning Beat, and the lovely lady behind Cake Follies created some cakes for all of us (and boy were they yummy).

Bottom Left - I'm slowly getting into crystalising, and have realised that it's a) damn expensive and b) damn tricky. I added a bit of sparkle to Mark's ringleader jacket!

Bottom Right - Makeup for The Burning Beat, I used Sugarpill to do a slightly clown-like look.

 

 

Top Left - A cute bra which I customised!

Top Right - I found a gorgeous Thai Dancer headdress on ebay, but need to figure out what to do with it. It's not got any headband, so I also need to figure out how to attach it to my head!!

Bottom Left - Makeup and hair for the last set we did at Torture Garden before starting our club. And my gorgeous new gold headphones!

Bottom Right - My lovely boyfriend is so romantic, and despite being together 3 years we still go on dates! He took me to the Colliseum to watch a very interesting Opera called Julietta, which had a giant accordian as the stage. It was really quite surreal.

 

Queen of Birds

A few months ago, when it was A LOT warmer, I made a new owl friend.

Nandi from Nitemare Photography, designer Sample Remix and myself had been planning this shoot for months and months. We originally wanted to shoot when the cherry tree blossom was in season, however the weather just wasn't stable enough.

Finally we managed, with the help of the gorgeous owl (who's name I can't remember, but belongs to the designer's aunt!). 

At the time, I posted some instagram shots of the makeup and hair I did on myself.

 

 

And here are the released shots!

 

 

 

 

Baroque lustworthy wishlist

I am not ashamed to say that my wardrobe is mainly full of the following colours: Black, Gold and Wine Red (or similar tones). 

I'm completely obsessed by how these rich colours work together, so imagine my delight screams of joy when I first discovered a few months ago, that opulent baroque styles would be trending this Autumn/Winter.

 

 

Clockwise from top left: The Palais Garnier, Tim Walker, a self portrait taken a few years ago and D&G's recent collection.


Normally trends pass me by, and I couldn't really imagine ANYONE keeping up with every trend (which would mean a whole new wardrobe over 4 times a year), but the good thing about this is that affordable copies are everywhere.

 

I was particularly looking forward to the offerings of ASOS and River Island, after having seen some preview images.

 

River Island's offerings that I've been checking back every day hoping they come into stock... (Image on the left from Whisty) Apparently the jacket is coming tomorrow, unsure about the shorts. 

 

But here's a few of the pieces I've already bought!

 Clockwise from top left: Slightly tacky baroque jumper (BUT IT'S SO WARM) from River Island, Red velvet with faux fur jacket from Rare, beautiful embellished collar from River Island, gold spangly bodysuit from Rare.

(EDIT: I just received the gold bodysuit, which is poorly made to say the least... however it was fairly cheap. I'll need to exchange it for a smaller size, but even then, the padding in the cups is bizarre, and the sequins scratch at the inside leg!)

 

And what about my lust list?


 

Upon compiling this list, I realised that there are reasons as to why I haven't already bought these items (I'm really awful, if I see something, I have to buy it... so I often try to think of ANY reason why I don't NEED it).

Clockwise from top left:

1. OASAP High Waistling Backless Tapered Dress - Prize for the most useless title! I love the look of this, but I'm wary of the quality.

2. ASOS Petite Exclusive Embellished Leotard - I have not bought this for various reasons, but one being that I'm PISSED OFF with ASOS. This was meant to come in a short bodysuit style, and I had been checking ASOS every day for it to come into stock. No show. It was even in their magazine but not on their website (the biggest, and most irritating mistake for a customer). When I saw this version come in, I emailed them to ask them about the short version, and received a pretty useless automated reply asking me to check the rest of ASOS' items for something similar. Another reason why I've not bought this is that it's made for 5'3 and under, which I am not. I have considered buying a size up and hoping it stretches to my height, but at £75 that seems ridiculous.

3. Topshop Drape Choker Necklace - I love the look of this, but I can't bring myself to spend £45 on a necklace.

4. River Island Black Flower Embroidered Cape - Cute, and affordable. I'll probably get this soon.

5. River Island Red Tapestry Satchel - My opinion of bags (and shoes) is that I will not replace one until the current bag has completely fallen apart. I get attached to my bags, and right now my one is pretty... despite the fact that the lining has fallen apart inside. I think I'd have to see this bag instore to figure out if all my things would fit in it (if it can fit a book of Game of Thrones and all my junk in comfortably, then we have a winner). 

6. ASOS Premium Knicker Shorts - Cute, but I prefer the River Island ones shown above!

 

Are you enjoying the baroque trend? Which items do you have your eye on?

 

Happy Halloween!

As you may know, I tend to dress up. While I don't find Halloween particularly sentimental (as I'm British) , I couldn't possibly NOT try and organise an extra-special outfit, could I?

 

I've actually wanted to do this outfit for some time, but wanted to do it in a particular way. Unfortunately my sewing skills are particularly bad. Luckily, the genius Kirsteen Ross, also known as Boom Boom Baby, came to my rescue. 

 

The Half Man - Half Woman costume has long been seen on the vaudeville stage, but I was particularly inspired by Zorita's version, which was a raunchier strip-tease. 

 

 

I want to, eventually, turn this into an act, so I asked Kirsteen to create the costume in a certain way, so that each piece can be removed. 

 

Here are a few self portraits of the finished look:

 

 

 

 

Carmen Amaya: Queen of the Gypsies

 

I've recently discovered (thanks tumblr) how amazing Carmen Amaya is. Just look at her!

 

But that's not all.

 

She was widely regarded as one of the greatest flamenco dancers of all time, shaping the way the dance has changed over the years. Amaya, of Romani origin and born in the slums of Barcelona, became known as "Queen of the Gypsies"; you can tell from the still photos and video that she had that beautiful gypsy passion.

 

Amaya began dancing at the age of four, and once she hit her teenage years her career kicked off as she travelled the world. Of course, she appeared in Hollywood movies during the 1930s, when interest in all things exotic was at it's peak. 

 

Sadly she died in 1963 at just 50 years old, after suffering kidney failure. However, her stunning dance had already shaped the flamenco world.

 

 

Amaya donned the "traje corto", a tight fitting suit, and traditional fast paced footwork, both usually reserved for men - shocking for the time. Watching her feet, it's no wonder that on several occasions she ended up putting her foot through the stage during her performance! 

 

Prior to this, women's flamenco had mainly featured arm and upper torso movement, however Amaya created something all her own by combining feminine grace with strong masculine moves. She did, however, begin to concentrate on a more feminine style towards the end of her career.

 

 She is incredibly inspiring, and now I really want my own "traje corto"!



Tweeding it up

 

 

I'd been umming and ahhing about buying a cape ever since they first came back into fashion last year. I didn't get one then because a) I wasn't sure if I could pull it off b) it didn't seem at all warm enough and c) I can't work out the arm holes.

But I bit the bullet and bought one, fairly cheap, by a small brand that sells to New Look (however I searched for it on ebay and ended up buying it for £10 less than the New Look price, directly from the manufacturer). 

The arm holes are still confusing (for me), as I usually carry two shoulder bags, it seems the ideal bag to carry with a cape is a handbag on the crook of your elbow. So it isn't as quick to get on or off as a coat. Nor is it as warm, however this isn't currently an issue, until it gets colder. The shape of the cape actually keeps in a lot more warmth than I originally assumed.

But it mainly made me think... why isn't there MORE tweed in my wardrobe? 

 

 Unfortunately a lot of the tweed in fashion at the moment is pretty hideous, as the "Country Girl"/"Dandy" style isn't currently trending. Plus most of the tweed womenswear seems to be worn by models/bloggers that have similar teeth to the horses daddy bought them. 

One day I'd love to go and watch the Tweed Run (note: Watch - I can't ride a bike), but for now I can just stare at photos of great tweed.

 

Beautiful Ms Dietrich

Vivienne Westwood Tweed Jacket

 

 Via Men Of Habit http://menofhabit.com/

 

The Burning Beat: Every Saturday at House of Wolf

I've been quite busy recently, but not with photography work, which I'm afraid may start to take a back seat until I get into the swing of my new routine!

As you may know, I am also part of a DJ duo known as The Roustabouts. For some time we have mused on the wish of starting our own club, something different from the cabaret we all know and love. And funnily enough, we got a call from David of the infamous Boom Boom Club, and The Burning Beat was born!

 

 

 I obviously didn't think I had enough strings to my bow!

The venue, House of Wolf, is a three floor Victorian pleasure palace, located in one of my favourite places, Upper Street in Angel. Each month the house plays host to a new resident chef, bringing their own brand of experimental cuisine to the venue. Not to mention the exciting looking experimental cocktails to be found in the Apothecary Bar upstairs (I haven't tried them yet, but you can BET I will do).

The interior of House of Wolf harkens back to it's historic beginnings (the front porch of the building is still the same from it's music hall days as "The Hare and Hounds" in the 1830s) with exposed brickwork, drooping steampunk-esque chandeliers, and embellished stag skulls. 

 

House of Wolf still shares the same location and porch as The Hare and Hounds, a music hall from the 1830s

We are lucky enough to take to the floor each Saturday, bringing a new brand of AUDIO, CURIO and CABARET. Last week we kicked off with the likes of Felipe Reyes, Roxy Velvet, Lisa Lottie and AMAZING band Tankus the Henge. Not to mention music galore from ourselves and David Harris!

 

To keep up to date with who will be performing each week, and what else will be going down at The Burning Beat, make sure you follow our Facebook page!

Here Kitty Kitty: Halloween!

I like to take the excuse to do something creative, and luckily my day-job allows me just that!

While I am a strong believer in dressing up whenever you like, Halloween seems to be the only time that it's internationally accepted. So, I decided to shoot some fun, slightly darker images for Playful Promises lingerie. As our lookbooks have to be quite commercial to appeal to a range of customers and stockists, it's fun to occasionally do some messier shots!

I booked the beautiful Anita de Bauch (and her kitty Dexter!) for this sex kitten style shoot. I'd been wanting to work for her for a while as she has such a classic look, but it was actually a welcome surprise how photogenic she is. It's hard to explain, but some people need more post production work than others (not to alter their face, but to ensure the light and angles are flattering - I tend to need quite a lot to look like I do when I look in the mirror!), but Anita was just amazing in front of the camera (as is Miss Miranda, hence why I like working with her so much).

 

 

 

 

 


This Month in Pictures

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My outfit for attending the UK Lingerie Awards last night! Wearing a frame bra by Karolina Laskowska.

 

  

 

Top Left - I went to the Lingerie Awards on behalf of Playful Promises, as Emma, the designer, couldn't make it. We didn't win in the categories we were nominated in, but feel proud of Kiss Me Deadly for their award! They happened to leave it with me while I was guarding my skull vodka (which is now happily in my own home!). 

Top Right - The venue for the awards was beautiful!

Bottom Left - Last week The Roustabouts were honoured to DJ the closing night of Marisa Carnesky's Tarot Drome. We also watched the show, which was fantastic and creepy. At the start of the after party a few of the performers took to the stage to show off their own acts. I absolutely loved H. Plewis, and managed to take this surreal shot of Vicky Butterfly's Moth act (which I had previously taken studio shots of).

Bottom Right - Suri Sumatra also took to the stage - she is so stunning, and I love her style. She also used a piece of music that I recognised from The Fall - instantly winning my heart.

 

 

Top Left - Last week we also DJed a wedding, which was absolutely beautiful. Such a sweet couple, and the bride had BUILT a booth for us!

Top Right - Mark and I and Miss Miranda and her boyfriend Anthony all went to go and see Cantina. I'm so glad I grabbed tickets to go, as it was the best piece of cabaret I have ever seen. I loved every minute, and I'll have to write a post about it.

Bottom Left - Dressed up ready to DJ Torture Garden - taking my kokoshnik for it's first outing.

Bottom Right - On the 31st of August we DJed a lolita themed late night event at the V&A museum, called Loli POP! Rather than play typical Jrock or a sweet set we opted for a video-game electro set, which seemed to go down a treat. To celebrate, we put out a special mix of just part of the set we played, which has almost reached 1000 plays (as I'm writing this)!

 

 

In August we were also honoured to play a Time Out Paris event at La Bellevilloise in Paris! I haven't been to Paris for a very long time so this was a new experience for me. Unfortunately, despite learning French at an early age, my ability to speak any other language is terrible, but we did eventually manage to find the hotel! 

As we were only there for one night, we wanted to squeeze in as much as possible, but I just cannot wait to go back. It was so beautiful, and so art nouveau everywhere. When we first got there we walked down to the Notre Dame and sat at a brasserie listening to an accordion player (so typical but so lovely!). 

The night itself was incredibly fun, and sponsored by Monkey Shoulder whiskey, which sure does create some yummy cocktails (bottom image). 

The next day I just had to go to see the Palais Garnier, the famous Opera house! We went on a tour, and seeing the beautiful golden hallway (top right image) brought tears to my eyes. The inside of the auditorium was equally beautiful, with an exquisitely painted stage curtain (top left image) - which was an illusion!

Competition Results: Lolly Pops

Back in May the DJ duo I'm part of, The Roustabouts, ran a competition to win a photoshoot with me. 

We had a fantastic response, and we randomly chose Lori, also known by her burlesque name Lolly Pops!

She had an amazing wedding dress, which she used for a burlesque act, but didn't manage to get many good photos of it. Seemed like the perfect excuse to do something a little bit creepy Miss Havisham!

With Cheyenne Raymond's super makeup skills we managed to get rid of Lori's eyebrows (don't worry, she got them back afterwards) and do some dark makeup to contrast against the dress. 

And here are the results!

Dragon Lady: Marianne Cheesecake

A few months ago I invited burlesque performer Marianne Cheesecake over to the studio to shoot some images for her Anna May Wong tribute costume. 

 

 

Some of you may have already heard of the beautiful Anna May Wong. She was the first Chinese-American movie star, hitting the screens in the 1920s. Wong worked with the top directors and actors of the time, from Douglas Fairbanks to Marlene Dietrich. 

Marianne's act is a beautiful tribute to Wong, with one of the most detailed costumes I have ever seen. Playing on the stereotype of the "Dragon Lady", Marianne plays Wong as a lifesize dragon. The stunning headdress and lingerie was made by Adora Belle and costume by Lenka Padysakova!