I Wish I Were Marlene Dietrich

As you may have guessed, Marlene Dietrich is one of my biggest style inspirations. 

Her stunning face, sultry voice and androgynous style has stood the test of time, as she remains one of the icons of the 1930s. 

One of her most iconic outfits is the tuxedo that she wore in Morocco, which was considered rather scandalous at the time. It didn't help matters that she kissed another woman in one of the scenes.

 

I wanted to do a little tribute to her tux look, so I shot some quick self portraits!

Forgive the crumpled shirt - I borrowed one from Mark, as well as the bow tie. The tailcoat is an old find from River Island, tuexdo trousers from ASOS, vintage top hat and the cummerbund was a birthday present from the wonderful Janet Fischietto :)

 I wanted the makeup to be a bit more exaggerated, more like her makeup here:

And if you happen to want some musical accompaniment... 

Paid Photography: Approaching A Client

Dior Couture Editorial image by Patrick Demarchelier

Photographers! So you've built up your portfolio, you are happy with it, you have good branding and you want to venture out into the possibility of getting PAID to take photographs. I'm not going to lie, it's a cut throat world out there, and more often than not, you aren't going to get paid for your work. You should be. Don't get me wrong. But many of your clients will be of the mindset that there is always someone else that can do it for cheaper or for free.

Designers/Brands! There is a problem with free photographs, and it is that, as a brand, you will usually have very little say in the format and content of the images and you do not have a guarantee that they will be usable. This is fair enough if you already have some set images to act as lookbooks, that show your products in the greatest detail to your customers. But just remember that skimping on paying your photographer and expecting some professional, highly detailed and well lit images is naive. This is something that should be invested in when you begin your company, alongside the investment of stock. The images you use to promote your brand are incredibly important. 

Now that's cleared up, back to photographers. You think you are (and have received feedback from others confirming this) good enough, and have strong enough branding, to start being paid. You want to go down the route of contacting brands or companies that may consider paying you for your fine work. Here's a few tips to remember:

 

An example of lookbook/catalogue photography from River Island AW13


1. Preferably find an email address for the relevant person. Avoid messaging on social media platforms wherever possible. If you really cannot find an email address (actually take the time to look), then message asking for the relevant email. If you have the person's name (and you've double-checked it's correct), use it. Woe betide anyone that spells my name "Ann" or "Ana".

2. Never use the words "hun" or "hunny" in your message. I would have thought this was obvious in any professional environment, but some people seem unable to restrain themselves. Same goes for "x"'s or smiley faces.

3. Spell check. Please.

4. If you are contacting a lot of people, it's understandable that you will copy and paste the main section of your message. But DO take the time to understand the brand (e.g. don't tell an affordable brand they are "high end") and personalize your email. 

5. If you aren't sure about the flow of your email, or you struggle with punctuation, read the email out loud. Wherever you naturally pause or stop should be commas and full stops. It will also allow you to notice any sentences that are awkwardly phrased.

6. Attach a pdf portfolio (under 2MB) or a website that isn't overloaded with flash. Your work should speak for itself without a pretentious flash design, so keep it as simple (yet branded!) as possible. Make sure you have some images related to the type of product the brand makes (e.g. jewelery, lingerie, clothing etc). If clothing then ensure your portfolio has simple lookbook/catalogue shots as well as editorials.

7. Do not claim to have worked with brands that you haven't actually worked with. Most brands, if you are good enough, won't care about whether you've worked for one of their competitors or peers. But if you DO wish to list the brands you have worked for, make sure you have worked FOR them and not just shot some pieces the model brought along. Unless you have had a conversation with the brand about creating some images FOR them, you have not worked for them. 

8. Suggest a free quick test shoot, or offer to shoot a sample in an upcoming shoot you have booked. They might say they only want published images, but chances are if you are good enough, and they have enough samples to give out (remember that some brands have a PR company that will have all their samples reserved to go out to press), they'll probably go with that.

9. If there's anything else you can bring to the table then mention it (e.g. a model you have in mind that is interested in the project, a location you have access to etc). 

Go get 'em!

Can you think of anything else that one should keep in mind when approaching potential clients?

 

Vicky Butterfly and the Faberge Egg

The thing that I particularly love about Tim Walker's work is his use of large props. Although he has claimed to be cutting back on the props and moving into studio work, I'll always love the whimsical use of over-sized objects. 

So when Vicky Butterfly got in touch about shooting her new egg and screen stage props I was rather intrigued!

I've worked with quite a few performers, both behind the scenes at events and with my camera, and there are very few that actually seem to live and breathe their art the way Vicky does. Her costumes, props and dances are so historically accurate and completely beautiful. She's well known for her moon act (photo by Scott Chalmers) and various other large prop acts. 

This is what she said about her Egg and Screen:

Well, I can finally share the results of my summer 'project'! As some of my friends may be aware, I have been the inheritor of Ruby Blues' Faberge Egg... In addition to general restoration I also refurbished it in a look inspired by one of the Imperial Easter Eggs held in the Vatican. I do like a craft project though and as I rarely do things by halves, I also created a 6ft tall 6 leaf backing screen inspired by the Catherine Palace Hall of Mirrors in St Petersburg. Yes, the carpentery, joinery etc. is mostly mine. So, having washed the dust from my hands, I give you my Imperial Swan's Egg! Yes, there may also have been a little inspiration from King Ludwig in there too...

So, on Saturday, I went over to shoot Vicky and her new set. Unfortunately I was a little (ok, a lot) hungover and we had to play jenga with the very heavy egg and very heavy 6 panel screen! I also had to balance on a rotating stage, and I'm not particularly good with balance at the best of times.

But it was worth it ;)

 

The Black Cat Cabaret and Vicky Butterfly

I thought I HAD posted this up here, but I must have forgotten!

I did a bit of photoshop work and finishing up on the recent Black Cat Cabaret (which, if you are in London, you should definitely go and see!) poster for Summer. The poster was illustrated by the fantastic Fyodor Pavlov.

 

 

I shot the bottom two images, of Sammy Dinneen and Vicky Butterfly, and liked the image of Vicky so much that I decided it would work well as a standalone image also. So I did something a little fancier with it...

 

Body Positivity: Shooting a "Plus Size" Model

 

Last month, we (i.e. the director of Playful Promises and I) decided to shoot some of the "larger" sizes we do on a size 14 model. As a bit of an experiment. 

First, let's take a step back, so I can explain one key point. One of the things that often makes me want to bash my head against the keyboard is when people demand to know why we cannot expand our size range, particularly "large" cup sizes. Seriously, every time you ask a tiny, independent brand this, someone kills a kitten. Think of the kittens. 

Thankfully Catherine at Kiss Me Deadly has written a long detailed reason as to why, which includes charts and numbers and probably makes most people wish they hadn't asked. And sure, most people ask in a very polite way, but some people take it as a personal attack on their breasts. CHILL OUT. 

Despite people informing us that we'd make lots of money if we made larger bra sizes (as opposed to the reality which would be that we'd go out of business if we made larger bra sizes), the large sizes are the ones left over at the end of a sale period. So, the experiment was that we shoot those larger sizes on a size 14 model (as opposed to the size 10 models we use for lookbooks) to show what those sizes look like on.


 

This is Ali. Gorgeous, right? Of course she is, she's a woman. Like the rest of the models I use. Size 8, size 6, size 14, all "real".

 And you know what I found different about working with a "curve" (which is the word the agencies now use, rather than plus size, because the latter phrase makes those outside of the fashion world explode) model? Absolutely nothing. I didn't need to have her pose differently, I didn't need to do any more retouching than I would on a size 10 model. Because being a model is her job, her job entails looking after herself. Just because she is a size 14 doesn't change this. She's fit, healthy and confident, which should be the key concepts in body positivity. 

 

 

We released the images on our facebook, with a statement saying how much we love ALL sizes, all positivity and rainbows. And then comes the inevitable. The body shaming of thinner women. And it's sad that people, men and women, feel the need to do that. As if it's some competition.

Perhaps I find such comments insulting because I've been on the receiving end. I used to be incredibly underweight for the first 15 years of my life, despite eating well. I was called names too, much the same as bigger girls would have been. That hasn't put me in the mind-set that telling "fat" women to "stop eating" (in my case, it was that I should "eat a hamburger") is ok. So why is this suddenly acceptable now? And among so many women?

 

 

I feel that it's a mixture between a backlash against the fashion world and encouragement from certain brands using this backlash to their advantage.

The phrase "real women" seems to be a fairly new one. In fact, I'd love to know if anyone knows a more specific timeline. I wouldn't be surprised if it came into use (in this way) since the Dove "Real Beauty" campaign began to roll out in 2004. I'm going to write a whole different post regarding my thoughts on the farce that is Dove's "Real Beauty", but for now, let's just say it's a marketing stunt, tapping into a sensitive subject to help sell beauty products. 

 It's such a shame that, when a brand or a person DOES do something positive for body image, some of the responses just put other women down. Will we ever be able to get to the point where women are not pitted against eachother?

 

New Photos: Janet Fischietto

 A few months ago, the gorgeous Italian burlesque star, Janet Fischietto was over in London and also performed at our club, The Burning Beat. It was so lovely to finally meet her!

I've loved Janet's look for so long, and was so excited when she asked to shoot!

We started off with some shots of her snake charmer costume.

 

 

We also did a different look with a gorgeous vintage dress she had found in London!

 

 

New Photos: Lewd Alfred Douglas

A few months ago I had the pleasure of meeting two amazing fellas, on their visit to London. 

 

Fyodor Pavlov and Lawrence Gullo are an incredibly talented couple from New York. Both of them are artists (and we commissioned some drawings of The Roustabouts from Fyodor) that have collaborated on a marvelous comic, among other projects. To say their work is an inspiration to me is an understatement ;)

 

Lawrence also performs boylesque under the name Lewd Alfred Douglas, with some historically-rich and varied acts. He asked if we would be able to arrange a quick shoot while he was back in London, which I was very happy to do!

 

Love Bomb 2013: Love Letters

You may remember last year I shot this campaign for the first Independent Lingerie Brands Love Bomb. Well, we did it again, on a slightly smaller scale (with 8 brands rather than 10) but with just as awesome prizes.

I shot the images a few weeks ago, which have now all been released. You have until tomorrow to enter to win each prize from each brand, so make sure you take a look at how to enter here! 

Model is
Miss Miranda
Fabulous hats are by Lily Lewis

 

Hat by Lily Lewis, Bra and brief by Playful Promises, Waspie by Velda Lauder, Suspender belt by Kiss Me Deadly.

 

Hat by Lily Lewis, Lingerie by Fraulein Annie

 

Bra and brief by Kriss Soonik, Waspie by Playful Promises, Suspender belt by Kiss Me Deadly

 

Gown by Ayten Gasson

 

Bra and brief by Miss Mandalay, Girdle by Kiss Me Deadly

 

Hat by Lily Lewis, swimsuit by Paolita

 

What do you think?

 

2012 Through The Lens

When I look back through my 2012 portfolio, I feel, perhaps for the first time, that my photography has improved throughout the year.

I shot 5 commercial lookbooks (two for clothing, one swimwear, one lingerie and one unreleased lingerie) plus the Love Bomb independent brand campaign.

 

Two of my favourite lookbook shots. Left: (Shot in November) Miss Miranda modelling one of the design competition winning entries for PP. Right: (Shot in November) Chantal modelling the Playful Promises AW13 collection.

 

The Love Bomb Campaign featured 10 independent UK lingerie/swimwear/accessory designers and was designed to raise awareness for KICK-ASS indie brands. We were shortlisted for the "Marketing Campaign" UK Lingerie Award, up against two mega-brands with buckets of cash to spend on their campaigns. I'd say that's pretty awesome.

 

I'm incredibly lucky in my job for Playful Promises to be able to work on creative projects too!

Top: Halloween mini-campaign featuring Anita de Bauch and Dexter. Left: Leah Debrincat as Cleopatra for one of our online magazine features. Right: Miss Miranda inspired by John Willie/Bizarre Magazine of the 1950s for a blog post.


I also took on the lookbook for a more risque brand, Fabulously Fetish, a kinky shoe/boot company. This was a tough, 9 hour long shoot, but I do feel like it's one of the best I've ever produced. 

Yeah, I've worked with Miss Miranda a lot <3 

 

I've worked with some amazing creative people on collaborative projects, including Amerlia Arsenic.

It's interesting to see how other people edit the shots I take! Love how Amelia has done this!

 

As well as some of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful burlesque artists.

Marianne Cheesecake and Vicky Butterfly. As intelligent and inspiring as they are beautiful!

 

I've also taken a fair share of self portraits (though, not as many as a few years ago!)

 

I'm pretty happy with what I've produced this year. Fingers crossed, next year I have the time to create even more!

For the past few months, excluding lookbook work, I haven't been working on my photography as much as I would have liked. DJing has taken up a lot of my time, with photography taking a back seat while I learn and perform. There's a lot I want to learn and do in 2013. Let's see.

 

Playful Promises SS13: Paradise

2 more sets of images have been released from Playful Promises, which I shot back in the Summer!

 

Better yet, all of these items are available now (just click through to go to the PP website).

 

Model: Miss Miranda

MUA: Cheyenne Raymond

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also shot the swimwear in our studio.

Model: Hayley @ IMM

MUA: Cheyenne Raymond

Hair stylist: Ceri Cushen

 

 

 

 

 

Playful Promises Design Competition Results

One of the things I love about my job is being able to watch lingerie being created.... from initial sketchy design through to CAD, to first sample through to final piece! Then I get the joy of photographing them!

In December last year, Playful Promises had run a design competition which would allow one budding lingerie designer the chance to see their design created (a pretty awesome thing to put on their CV!). After a facebook vote, Emma, the brand director still had a tough choice narrowing down to just one design. So she thought, fuck it, let's do three of them. 

You can take a look at the final CADs here, and how they work so well as a mini-collection!

Last week, when shooting the PP AW13 collection we took an hour out to quickly shoot these with Miss Miranda. 

I'm pretty chuffed with these photos too! What do you think?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fabulously Fetish : NSFW

I've had to keep these photos under wraps for a while, so I just can't wait to share them!

A few months ago I shot the new lookbook for awesome shoe brand, Fabulously Fetish! It was the most epic shoot I've done so far, in terms of props, preparation and time it took shooting (9 HOURS). It would have been a difficult task but luckily I had an amazing model, who I just love working with again and again. Bet you can't guess who :P Yep, Miss Miranda.

Fabulously Fetish recreate the classic fetish arched shoe, so we wanted to bring a bit of this into the shoot without becoming cliche. Inspired by Bizarre (no, not the current Bizarre, the original 50's version) created by illustrator John Willie, we used rope-bondage and particular poses to evoke the feeling of two different characters. One is a more submissive woman, echoing Sweet Gwendoline, while the other is a stronger, dominant type. The characters also invade each other's space (the two different sets, one faded grandeur, and one stark and distressing). 

I'm so pleased with these images, hopefully you will like them too!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Halloween!

As you may know, I tend to dress up. While I don't find Halloween particularly sentimental (as I'm British) , I couldn't possibly NOT try and organise an extra-special outfit, could I?

 

I've actually wanted to do this outfit for some time, but wanted to do it in a particular way. Unfortunately my sewing skills are particularly bad. Luckily, the genius Kirsteen Ross, also known as Boom Boom Baby, came to my rescue. 

 

The Half Man - Half Woman costume has long been seen on the vaudeville stage, but I was particularly inspired by Zorita's version, which was a raunchier strip-tease. 

 

 

I want to, eventually, turn this into an act, so I asked Kirsteen to create the costume in a certain way, so that each piece can be removed. 

 

Here are a few self portraits of the finished look:

 

 

 

 

Here Kitty Kitty: Halloween!

I like to take the excuse to do something creative, and luckily my day-job allows me just that!

While I am a strong believer in dressing up whenever you like, Halloween seems to be the only time that it's internationally accepted. So, I decided to shoot some fun, slightly darker images for Playful Promises lingerie. As our lookbooks have to be quite commercial to appeal to a range of customers and stockists, it's fun to occasionally do some messier shots!

I booked the beautiful Anita de Bauch (and her kitty Dexter!) for this sex kitten style shoot. I'd been wanting to work for her for a while as she has such a classic look, but it was actually a welcome surprise how photogenic she is. It's hard to explain, but some people need more post production work than others (not to alter their face, but to ensure the light and angles are flattering - I tend to need quite a lot to look like I do when I look in the mirror!), but Anita was just amazing in front of the camera (as is Miss Miranda, hence why I like working with her so much).

 

 

 

 

 


Dragon Lady: Marianne Cheesecake

A few months ago I invited burlesque performer Marianne Cheesecake over to the studio to shoot some images for her Anna May Wong tribute costume. 

 

 

Some of you may have already heard of the beautiful Anna May Wong. She was the first Chinese-American movie star, hitting the screens in the 1920s. Wong worked with the top directors and actors of the time, from Douglas Fairbanks to Marlene Dietrich. 

Marianne's act is a beautiful tribute to Wong, with one of the most detailed costumes I have ever seen. Playing on the stereotype of the "Dragon Lady", Marianne plays Wong as a lifesize dragon. The stunning headdress and lingerie was made by Adora Belle and costume by Lenka Padysakova!