Tips for the aspiring lingerie model

I've had quite a few people ask me for tips regarding being a lingerie model, which I thought I'd share here.

Now, some of these may initially sound harsh, and completely backwards to body positivity, however these are NOT tips for "real" (i.e. not models) women, these are tips for a job that involves being judged by your appearance CONSTANTLY. If you are looking for something to boost your confidence, the thing you are looking for is a boudoir shoot, NOT the added pressure of the fact that the images will directly effect the success of the brand's collection. 



1. Be realistic about how commercial you look.

Let's back up. The majority of lingerie brands will often be investing quite a hefty sum of money (think about the location cost, the photographer cost, the retouching cost, the hair and makeup cost) into shooting their latest collections. Once the images are ready to go, these will go out to trade press, wholesale customers and, nearer the time of release, international press. Most of these lingerie brands will be surviving on their wholesale revenue, especially if they sell to the big players such as ASOS. Now, a lot of these big players (and some smaller clients) are so big because they are commercial, meaning that they appeal to the masses. They will, I assure you, only buy from a collection that has a fairly commercial lookbook. This tends to mean that if a brand uses a heavily tattooed model for the shots, the probability of the items selling is less likely. If the model has a large amount of facial piercings, this will take away from the impact the lingerie will have on the potential customer. Unfortunately, that is fact. 

HOWEVER, there are lingerie brands that DO use what would be described as Alternative Models. However, most of those brands are niche or smaller, and will just not be able to achieve the kind of numbers that a mid-range commercial brand can. Also, their models are usually pin up style, and again, rarely have heavy body mods. 

So you need to decide whether you have the look to target a commercial lingerie brand (if so, most of their models are from agencies, so this would be your first port of call) or a more alternative look that would work for vintage or pin-up style brands. You can tell which brand is which by looking at the type of models that they use. For example, Myla uses predominantly blonde or brunette models with long hair and no visible body modifications, whereas What Katie Did uses models that live and breath pin up/vintage lifestyle.

And for the love of god, don't email a commercial brand asking for work if you have full sleeve tattoos and bright red hair, that just shows you haven't bothered looking at the brand's ethos and ideal look. 

 

Playful Promises AW13 - Model is Chantelle from Leni's

2. Be realistic about how your body looks

As above, you need to do your research into what the models of each category of brand physically look like. You need to know that a commercial model is usually a 34B (due to sample bras usually being made in a standard 34B), which means that she can also be a 32C. Understand that niche brands such as full bust and small bust companies will, obviously, have a different "ideal size" model. 

It is NOT about having huge breasts, it's about having a toned, slim body (for commercial brands) with clear skin. Most of the commercial lingerie models I cast are either dancers or work incredibly hard to keep their bodies in check. They aren't necessarily thinner than I am, but they are toned, which can only be kept up with exercise and healthy eating (note: NOT from not eating at all. It's incredibly obvious when a model is unhealthy as her skin and hair are not in good condition). 

You will be judged on how your body looks. That will be your job. I don't want to scare you away, but I fear that a lot of the models that suffer issues were probably unaware of how taxing this can be. You need to understand that, and you need to have a healthy mindset in regards to your body BEFORE you start working. Worst case scenario: Someone will tell you that you need to loose weight. Best case scenario: You will be silently judged on how tight your stomach is, how pert your bum is, how your breasts fit the bra, how angular and appealing your face is, and finally how your overall look fits the brief of what the brand are looking for. Then you will do the shoot and be told you look absolutely gorgeous constantly. Because that's exactly how I work. And you know, it's horrible to have to look at women like that. But it's not personal and it's not that, if I reject a model, I'm saying she isn't good enough, she just isn't what we need for the brand. 





3. You better werk.

If you do manage to find a brand that wants to pay you (THAT is a key concept. If a brand doesn't want to pay you, then they are either taking a gamble or are taking you for a ride) to model for them, that's the easy part. You will be expected to be professional and experienced. If you aren't experienced, you should have been practicing your poses for weeks. You should know which is your best angle. You are expected to turn up on time, be preened, be poked, have no modesty (you may need to change very quickly in front of other people, although I would say it is fair to ask men to leave the room if you are uncomfortable), and then pose under hot lights for roughly 6 or so hours. You need to listen to any input you are getting from the photographer or assistants, but most of the time you will need to keep moving through poses by yourself. 

Also: eyes, you need to look awake. And don't do orgasm eyes or exaggerated-lolita eyes, you are classy and strong, not a harlot or a teenage girl. 

It's hard work (I should know, I'm the one that is also under hot lights, crawling around on the floor trying to get the best angle), and so you need to keep drinking water and you need to take a break to eat. We bring food for the model, but other brands may not be so thoughtful, so consider bringing something just in case. 


4. How to "become" a lingerie model


I find it a bit odd when people refer to wanting to be a lingerie model, because unless you are referring to Victoria's Secret Angels (who, let's be honest, you shouldn't be aspiring to be), there aren't many models that are exclusively "lingerie models". The best you could get is to become a brand's go-to model, but with the ratio of models to brands, who only shoot 2 collections a year, there just isn't a lot of work available.

The first step to becoming a commercial lingerie model is to get on the books of a decent agency. We've used agencies such as IMM, Nevs, Leni's, Body London etc, and I guarantee that it is far easier for brands to send a list of requirements to the agencies rather than search for a model of agency standard. Nobody (who will pay you) will use modelmayhem.

However, I would suggest doing non-branded (and often unpaid) photoshoots to practice your posing and develop a good portfolio. In terms of what is a good portfolio, take a look at the portfolios of the type of model you aspire to be, note how many full length, close up and lingerie shots they have. My rule of booking a lingerie model is that if I can't see your stomach clearly in a photo, then I won't call you in for a casting.  

If you do want to contact a brand directly looking for work, remember to be professional. There's nothing more insulting than poorly written emails (sometimes not even getting the brand name right!) or not bothering to include a link to your portfolio. As with all work-related communication, you need to take the time to write a polite email explaining who you are and what you'd like to offer (do not use the word "collaboration"). Preferably find an email of someone to email directly (and use their name) - NEVER tweet your request, EVER. And also, do not say you have "modeled for" a brand that you haven't directly been hired by (even if it's not the brand you are contacting. We do pay attention to what our friends and competitors do, so we do notice which models they use!). Just wearing a piece of lingerie in a photoshoot does not mean you have worked for the company.



I do apologise if all that seemed a little harsh, however I would hope that if you take the time to read my explanations for each point, you will understand the reasoning behind it. Basically, there is a huge surplus of models, and girls who think they have what it takes to be a model. It's not all glamour and fun, it's a physically demanding job. 

This article over on The Lingerie Addict has a few more tips, including common sense points such as making sure you list your measurements on your portfolio (by the way "B" is not a bust measurement, we need the whole shebang). 

Good luck!

What's in my bag!

I thought I would take part in the IFB Project "What's in your bag?", and do what it says on the tin!

This is my rather demonic-looking bag, complete with handle of human bone, mwahaha! Ahem. No, it is bamboo. Unfortunately this doesn't hold as much as I would have liked, but I am VERY picky when it comes to bags, and this was good looking enough for me to give up the space.

And here is what I tend to carry around in my bag. Stupidly, I forgot my iphone in this shot.

1. Passport - pretty much my only form of ID as I don't drive. I know it is a bit risky carrying it round every day, in case I lose it, but... it is the only form of ID I haven't had trouble with.

2. A few flyers that I've made for work, just in case I need to hand them out to anyone.

3. Keys to my flat.

4. Fake LV purse - I should probably start looking for a nice new purse, which is a bit more me, as I've had this one for years and it is starting to fall apart!

5. I always carry whatever book I'm currently reading with me to read on the bus and at lunch. At the moment I'm reading the Bioshock novel, which, despite my initial hesitation (I thought it might be a load of fanfiction-esque crap), is very good and reminds me why Bioshock is the only video game I keep playing over and over. 

6. Oyster Card - this is the system London transport uses instead of tickets (although you can buy tickets if you want). All you have to do is swipe it over the reader, and you can set it up online to recharge automatically when it reaches below a certain limit. A fantastic idea, for once!

7. Business cards with business card holder. I always try to have these on me just in case I meet anyone I want to keep in contact with/show my portfolio. I had the cards printed by Moo, and they are gorgeous quality - the paper is thick and the rounded corners really stand out (although, I've found that Moo tends to print slightly darker than usual). Another great feature is you can upload up to 50 designs - I have about 20, so theres a real mix of my work to show people! Here is a close up:

 

Wig stylin'

As a follow up to my previous post on wig advice, I've put together a few ideas about styling wigs.

One of the biggest mistakes I see people make, even when they have bought a decent-quality wig, is just wearing it straight from the packaging. In my opinion, a wig should not be an obvious giveaway. No matter how outrageous the colour, you can still make it work like your natural hair!

For example, I've recently purchased this wig and haven't styled it yet. It probably isn't the best example as the wig itself is fantastic quality, with a fairly good fake parting. However, here you can see how it is styled straight out of the box:

 

Eek - no eyes!

There are two ways you can deal with the super-long-fringe-of-doom (you do not push the wig back so the crown sits on top of your head and you do not leave the fringe as is and blink your way through) you can either push it to one side so it is flipped across your forehead: 

 

 

 This way it is always best to either pin it into place or cut the fringe into a slant. If you are going to go down this route, I always find it looks more realistic if you wear the wig at a slight angle, as if the parting is a side parting. 

 To cover the giveaway fake parting, hats, hairpieces and hair clips are your friend!

Or you can just shorten the fringe by cutting it straight across (or asymmetrical or even in a widow's peak if you prefer!). I have found the best way to ensure a straight fringe is to cut it while the wig is on. If you are not used to cutting your own fringe then start out slowly, only taking half an inch off and try to even it out as much as possible. Here I have also cut a little piece for the side of my face, to draw attention to my fake cheekbones!

 

A straight fringe frames my face just the way I want

 Of course, some wigs may require a bit more styling than this one, which already has a great volume and length. Sometimes you may need to do a bit of reconstructive surgery on a particularly bad wig; always helpful if you have a friend with hair skills! 

The only thing that is left is to experiment with the wig as if it were your own hair. Try up-dos, braiding, plaiting, victory curls, finger waves, mixing in coloured extensions..... some wigs are even heat-resistant and will allow you to curl or straighten them. I always like to have long wigs up off my neck, and use the length to clip up onto one side, like this:

 

Capt. Swiczeniuk signing off!